The first evening in a rental is when most people find out how little they planned. It's after five, everyone's wrecked from the flight, and the cupboards are empty or close to it. Takeaway is always possible, but it's a flat way to start a week of looking after yourselves. That's the trade-off with self-catering accommodation in Fiji. The kitchen and washing machine are yours, nobody tells you when breakfast stops, and you're also the one who has to fill the fridge. Get the